Electrical Appliances
Appliance Installations Directory - Please make your Selection;
We recently ordered an LG washer and Sears is delivering it on Friday. I just wanna know if it's good. It's this one right here http://www.lg.com/us/appliances/washers/LG-WM2101HW.jsp We payed $645.99 for it because Sears was having a huge sale that day and I know it's like $800 regular price. And we are getting over $200 in rebates. We're getting $50 from PG&E, $100 from The State Of California, and $75 from Sears for the delivery and installation.
21 Jul 2010, 10:44 pm | click here to view more
Here's what happened: I have home warranty insurance. It's not home owners' insurance, they insure every my appliances and stuff. I buy it purely for the convenience of it because I call one number and they send out the appropriate repairman, and then I receive service at a discount. So the handle broke off my faucet broke in my bathroom. I set up an appointment with my home warrenty company to fix it. Then I bought a new faucet to replace to old one. I stayed home from work to meet the repair guy. Repair guy showed up and said home warranty company would buy me a new faucet, I told him I knew this, but I wanted a pretty one so I bought my possess. He called the company for authorization to install it, and they DENIED him for no reason. He then offered to install it for $159, outside the warranty. I didn't want to miss more work, so I said okay and paid him. Normally with the warranty, I would only have to pay $60. Then I called up the home warranty company to complain. below the contract with me they have to 1) buy me a new faucet and 2) install it. So I asked why they denied me the installation when I was asking for LESS service than what I was entitled to. They admitted that they messed up and then offered to refund me $80. I told them that I really should have only paid $60, and I paid $159, so my refund should be $99, not $80. Again they insisted that they would only pay $80. I told them that they were being ridiculous, and that this insurance was becoming more of a pain than it was worth. I JUST renewed it a few days earier and so I then asked whether I would receive a pro-rated refund if I cancelled. They informed me that if I cancel in the first 30 days, I receive a full refund. Then I asked what would happen to the faucet repair costs if I cancelled. Would I not receive the $80 refund since I will have cancelled my insurance. They told me, no, I would still receive the $80 refund. They cover every repairs until I cancel apparently! Here's what I told them: I am going to cancel, but I have 2 other things I need repaired that I have been putting off due to time issues: 1) my heater and 2) a leaky outdoor faucet. This will probably cost at least $500 to repair. So I told them that either they refund me the additional $19, OR I am going to arrive out and have them repair those 2 things, and then cancel my insurance for a full refund. They still refused to give me the $19 even though I told them this plan!!! Should I go through with it?
5 May 2010, 5:14 pm | click here to view more
I'm buying a dryer off of Sears.com and they are telling me I need to receive an electric dryer cord with my dryer. Without explaining the difference between any of these, they stupidly give me these options: 6 Foot, 4 Wire Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 4 Foot, 3 Wire, 30 amp Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 3 Wire, 6 Foot Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 4 Foot, 4 Wire, 30 amp Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 These parts are needed to install your appliance. For proper installation, existing parts cannot be reused. I'm buying a Kenmore 500 7.0 cu. ft. Electric Dryer. Does anyone know which cord I need to receive? Thank you!!! Is the 3-slot outlet just a normal American outlet?
13 Oct 2010, 1:56 pm | click here to view more
Making a career or of these and salary, which pays the highest and is the best in demand to receive into? •Agriculture/agricultural sciences •Air transportation services •Animal training •Aquaculture operations and production management •Architectural drafting •car/automotive body repair •Building/property maintenance and management •Business machine repair •Cabinet making and millworking •Carpentry •Civil/structural drafting •Clothing, apparel, and textile work and management •Commercial garment and apparel services •Commercial photography •Communication systems installation and repair •Computer installation and repair •Conservation and renewable natural resources •Construction trades •Crop production operations and management •Custodial services •Dietician assistance •Diving (Professional) •Drafting •Dry cleaning and laundering (Commercial) •Electrician •flame protection •Fishing technology/commercial fishing •Food catering •Forestry •Graphic and printing equipment operation •Greenhouse operations and management •Heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration •Home furnishings and equipment installation and consultation •Horticulture services operations and management •Industrial design •Industrial machinery maintenance and repair •Instrument calibration and repair •Landscaping operations and management •Locksmithing and safe repair •Machinist/machine technology •Major appliance installation and repair •Marine maintenance and boat repair •Masonry and tile setting •Mechanical drafting •Nursery operations and management •Ornamental horticulture operations and management •Painting and wall covering •Plumbing and pipe fitting •Precision metal working •Sheet metal working •Shoe, boot, and leather repair •tiny engine mechanical and repair services •Stationary energy sources installation and operation •Tool and die making/technology •Transportation and materials moving •Vehicle and equipment operation •Vehicle and mobile equipment mechanical and repair services •Watch, clock, and jewelry repair •Water transportation services •Welding •Window treatment making and installation •Woodworking
14 Nov 2011, 10:41 pm | click here to view more
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i have an electric frigidaire stove that had a 4 prong cord installed but i am now living in a home that has 3 prong outlets and because of that, i need to switch to a 3 prong cord, so i went to the store, got the cord and switched them out but now i ran into another porblem..i dnt look a grounding strap. now on the diagram for a 3 cord hookup , there are arrows pointing to a grounding strap and grounding screw. i look the screw but i dont look any strap. do i need to have the grounding strap for the stove to work properly? Im hesitant to plug the stove in because of this . i connected the wire to the terminals correctly but now the diagram is pointing to this strap that i think i might need. can i just call frigidaire to receive this strap or can i buy it in a store? Has anybody ever switched cords from a 4 prong to a 3 prong before? this stove is a 2008 electric glass/flat top frigidaire range. do newer stoves not even have the grounding strap because its assumed that everybody has a 4 prong outlet now and wouldnt need a 3 prong cord? please help! this is driving me crazy!! thanx!!
18 Jan 2012, 2:31 am | click here to view more
Here's the context: I am moving soon and my new apartment has a place (and every the installation like water for it) for a washing machine right next to the oven but has no place for a drying machine nor the installation for the dryer (no air leave and no dryer outlet). I already have a washing machine and a dryer (but no oven and no fridge, but that's not really helpful here), and would like to maximize "laundry efficiency" and cost. Knowing that someone is offering 800$ for both dryer and washing machine, what would be the best solution for me? Here is a list of solutions I thought about, I'd really appreciate comments about cost, feasibility and efficiency on them. I am completely open to new ideas. 1. Sell both dryer and washing machine and buy a two in one running on 120V, using the window for the air leave; 2. Attempt to sell the dryer (maybe not possible... or not at a good price if alone) and hang my laundry around the apartment to dry it; 3. Place the dryer on top of the washing machine (both load by a front door) if the space permits it (I haven't taken any measurements yet), take the air leave of the dryer through the window (even if Canadian winters are quite icy) and plug the dryer in the oven's outlet. (Is that even possible? the oven outlet is 14-50R while the dryer's outlet is 14-30R... I'd need an adapter... How dangerous is it to plug a 30A max appliance on a 40A (or 50A, I'm not sure) breaker?) Thanks in advance! This situation is bugging me quite a bit.
13 Dec 2009, 6:55 pm | click here to view more
I am re-wiring my microwave range hood. I am putting it on a new dedicated 20A circuit (it was tied into a 15A lighting circuit before). The cabinet over the microwave will now have glass doors so I do not want to drill through it and put a receptacle inside. If I run wire (romex or armored if required) from an accessible junction box (or directly from the service panel if romex) and use a female connector on the end of the cable is this ok per code? This is a residential installation.
4 Aug 2011, 4:33 pm | click here to view more
This is more of a rant than a question, but here goes: So, the EU is banning incandescent light bulbs as of, well, last year They are replaced by CFL's and energy saving halogen bulbs CFL's are not dimmable, halogens are, but they are to 'be phased out by 2013' LED's cast a hideously bright spot of dull blue light in one direction CFL's contain mercury, and nobody knows where to recycle them, so when they break, we breath in mercury vapor and toss them in the bin, where they receive dumped in landfill. "They last longer" (in buildings where the electrical supply is completely constant, aka nowhere, and still blow with voltage fluctuations as with incandescents CFL's have big white plastic bases which look awful in light fixtures that are designed to be decorative, not light up a room CFL's are too bright, inducing migraines and creating a gloomy, icy light. There is no replacement for light fixtures that require crown silver cap light bulbs It is wasteful to have to buy CFL's to put in places like closets, spare rooms, garages, basements, sheds e.t.c. where lights are rarely turned on and only used for a few minutes at a time The heat given off by incandescent bulbs has a heating effect on the building, which would otherwise be made up by other forms of heating Many artists, theatres, historic buildings, museums, store displays e.t.c. rely on incandescent bulbs for decorative purposes and artistic installations Although the same shape, CFL's do not fit properly into a lot of old fashionned light fittings, as they are slightly longer due to the white bit at the base, and they stick out the top There are far more inefficient appliances, practices e.t.c. out there than light bulbs Streetlights still arrive on dusk till dawn with no consideration lava lamps need incandescent spotlight bulbs to work Why not enforce something practical, like making heat recovery systems compulsory in every new buildings??? aaaaargggggh how stupid can people be? apparently as stupid as people like thor
23 Mar 2011, 7:43 pm | click here to view more
Tile installation for basic setting. Example: 1200 sf on cement installing 12x12 3/16 joint running straight some carpet removal,furniture etc. just labor? Example: 500 sf on wood floor installing 18x18 3/16 joint running diagonal some linoleum removal, appliances etc. just labor? Thank you ..
17 Nov 2010, 11:46 pm | click here to view more
Hi every I've just spoken to my Mum who is beside herself, she was given the name of a kitchen installer from a pal (who is now in a coma((unhappy but true)) and who visited her home several times in the latter half of 2009. She picked a kitchen and paid the guy a deposit of £1000 by cheque. He gave her paper work supporting this. He then asked for another £1000 via bank transfer and then for full payment just prior to the suggested installation date of 7th May which she also transferred via online bank transfer. The only pointof contact she had with this man was his mobile number. He started to avoid her calls and weirdly started sending her text message responses but would never call in person. He the started to put off the date of installation due to 'having made a mess of the order'. My Mum is feeling very low and unhappy and mad as you can imagine. She doesn't know what to do, which is where I ask for your help on the matter. Info- She has his name She has a mobile number She has a bit of paperwork regarding said kitchen and appliances. Please give me any advice you can.
17 May 2010, 7:19 am | click here to view more
I ordered a new Kitchen, cabinets, appliances and a solid surface counter top.from a big box store. When the cabinets were delivered we installed the one U section of the cabinets in my kitchen and were waiting on the counter top installation. We then receive to the next wall and the wall oven cabinet was the wrong size. The store told me I was to modify the cabinet to fit the oven. My husband had to clip into the staples that held the cabinet together to fit the oven per the store. My husband researched it and found out we were sold the wrong size cabinet for the oven we purchased. This was every done on the stores computer with the kitchen designer we paid a fee for. 1) the counter top had a VERY obvious seam that they replaced-(us uninstall and reinstall faucet) 2) The wall oven was the wrong size per kitchen designer(us-uninstall oven after a huge battle trying to modify opening. 3)the dishwasher (brand new) was dented on the inside. (us-install then uninstall dishwasher) 4) they sold me a telescopic exhaust fan that wouldn't even fit in my kitchen., but it was on the computer layout somehow. 5) New replacement walloven cabinet came in damaged so they had to re order it. They called me set up a delivery within 20 minutes to an hour, after 2 1/2 hours I called and they said oops we made a mistake the cabinet isn't here. They delivered it the next day and it too is damaged. (I didn't notice the warped panel at first) but within an couple hours I called back. 6) The caulk on my sink is the wrong color but I didn't feel like waiting again. 7) The cabinet are white (painted look finish) well now I notice the newest cabinet is also a different hew of white and it is in the middle of 4 total cabinets. PLUS this every started 2 days before Thanksgiving. My thanksgiving was ruined my Christmas and my Annual New Years Party. They want to know what I want. What would you ask for?? It has been 10 weeks and I still have a oven sitting in the middle of my kitchen. I want the whole thing for free because of my aggravation! 10,000.00 dollars
24 Jan 2012, 4:58 pm | click here to view more
What should I ask for in compensation? I ordered a new Kitchen, cabinets, appliances and a solid surface counter top.from a big box store. When the cabinets were delivered we installed the one U section of the cabinets in my kitchen and were waiting on the counter top installation. We then receive to the next wall and the wall oven cabinet was the wrong size. The store told me I was to modify the cabinet to fit the oven. My husband had to clip into the staples that held the cabinet together to fit the oven per the store. My husband researched it and found out we were sold the wrong size cabinet for the oven we purchased. This was every done on the stores computer with the kitchen designer we paid a fee for. 1) the counter top had a VERY obvious seam that they replaced-(us uninstall and reinstall faucet) 2) The wall oven was the wrong size per kitchen designer(us-uninstall oven after a huge battle trying to modify opening. 3)the dishwasher (brand new) was dented on the inside. (us-install then uninstall dishwasher) 4) they sold me a telescopic exhaust fan that wouldn't even fit in my kitchen., but it was on the computer layout somehow. 5) New replacement wall oven cabinet came in damaged so they had to re order it. They called me set up a delivery within 20 minutes to an hour, after 2 1/2 hours I called and they said oops we made a mistake the cabinet isn't here. They delivered it the next day and it too is damaged. (I didn't notice the warped panel at first) but within an couple hours I called back. 6) The caulk on my sink is the wrong color but I didn't feel like waiting again. 7) The cabinet are white (painted look finish) well now I notice the newest cabinet is also a different hew of white and it is in the middle of 4 cabinets so it is obvious. PLUS this every started 2 days before Thanksgiving. My thanksgiving was ruined my Christmas and my Annual New Years Party. They want to know what I want. What would you ask for?? It has been 10 weeks and I still have a oven sitting in the middle of my kitchen. I want the whole thing for free because of my aggravation! 10,000.00 dollars What do you think is fair? EMGEE- you are a IDIOT. If you are doing this to be nasty, you succeeded. Are such a lonely loser that every you do is troll sites to insult people??? You should be ashamed of yourself, I am sure you are and that is why you insult people looking for help. P.S. your response doesn't even make sense, you idiot!(just in case you were serious) I also MODIFIED the first cabinet per the instructions from the store manager after I called and told him the issue.
25 Jan 2012, 8:15 am | click here to view more
I paid out of pocket to put in the front step and sidewalk and the trim work and staining etc. My parents gave me tile for the kitchen dining area and i paid for the grout and installation. Also I had allowances for carpet and appliances and i went a good deal over budget, would i be able to itemize the difference?
7 Feb 2010, 9:58 pm | click here to view more
I have just started working for a solar panel installation company and I am new to this so I am not really sure. But is it possible to have panels that provide energy for select household appliances? For example having a panel (not really sure about sizes) for you refrigerator, or television, or computer, or a combination of select appliances. I believe if this was possible it would appeal to those who cannot afford entire arrays. How do you go by doing that though? I've helped install entire arrays and they go from the inverter to the meter correct? I am still new to this. I am taking a class soon but I want to receive a head start. I assume they wouldn't only let the appliances rely on the just the panels in case it is a cloudy day. I wouldn't want my refrigerator to just cease working.
12 May 2010, 8:35 am | click here to view more
I tried to install a new light fixture today. I was replacing a old one with a new one. We followed the instructions. Turned off power and hung it up there, the light fixture did not work. The problem is that the circuit breaker goes to other appliances including my garage door opener. I have disconnected the light fixture. Is is ok to turn the power back on? I have wrapped the exposed wires with black electrical tape.
9 Jan 2011, 12:14 am | click here to view more
I just got my Windows 7 Ultimate Retail OEM (woohoo) and I'm going to do a clean installation of this OS on my computer. I luckily still have every of the Driver CDs for my hardware and appliances, so drivers won't be an issue. The only thing is, well, where I'm going to back up every of my stuff. Hold on, I'm gonna finish my backup folder so I can give a final size... ... Okay, 153GB. I currently have my Backup stuff on my secondary difficult steer, which is used only for space. The real question is: When I finish installing Windows 7 and every that, will my partitioned secondary difficult steer still be usable/accessible, and every of my backup stuff will still be on it? Will I be able to access the secondary steer without any prerequisite actions? I just want to make sure that everything is a go. Thanks !
27 Oct 2009, 3:39 pm | click here to view more
We lived in a rental townhouse for almost 5 years and after we moved out, the landlord sent us a bill for installation of new carpeting throughout the home, as well as for replacement of every the kitchen appliances. Not only has he taken the entire deposit of $1495 but charged over $4000 on top! He says that the carpet as well as the appliances were in awful shape due to neglect. Now this carpet had not been changed for 5 yrs that we had been there OR the few years before then with a previous tenant who had 5 kids. The appliances were every dated AT LEAST 10 yrs, more likely more than that. He seems to be outfitting the whole home at our expense. Am I obligated to pay? I can understand that the carpet was not in great shape but isn't there normal wear and tear after almost a decade? I've paid for cleaning many many times and asked for the carpet to be replaced twice. Both times, it was deemed 'cleanable' and not 'replaceable'. The appliances were ancient and yellowed with age. Am I really obligated to pay for every this? Do I have any legal recourse?
9 Sep 2010, 1:31 am | click here to view more
Last year April 2009 I bought my first home for 90K and received the first time homebuyers credit. The home was in fair cosmetic condition but structurally sound and so I used the credit for new carpet/flooring-paint- new appliances etc When I bought my home it appraised for 98k I have several other tiny projects I like to finish- new fencing- some minor stuff in my kitchen such as new countertops/back splash-and 2 bathroom remodels new countertops-shower toilet etc- I don't plan on spending a whole lot just some updates I can look the fencing being the most expensive since I am on a 1 acre lot and the bathroom remodel as well I plan to stay here for another 10 years at least - two homes on my st that are comparable to mine recently sold for 114k and 112k Is it too early since I only owned a year to receive the equity loan or line of credit? How does this every work? Do I even have equity yet since it has been a year? I live in a quick growing rural area close a military installation and in the next 2 years there is going to be a huge surge in population with the base realignment
17 May 2010, 1:06 pm | click here to view more
plumbing copper tubing from old residential appliance installation. thanks.
19 Aug 2010, 9:58 am | click here to view more
I need to replace my water heater and am considering a tankless model. My greatest concern is that they every require special every-stainless steel exhaust ventilation. Not only is this impractical for my installation environment, but it suggests that the appliance generates so much waste heat that it's not so energy efficient after every. Are there any natural gas tankless water heaters that can use an existing galvanized steel exhaust vent?
19 Nov 2010, 10:53 am | click here to view more
. Chris Martin Mississauga, Ontario Cell: (000)-000-0000 Email: chrismartin1978@gmail.com Summary of Qualifications Provide quality service Over 14 years in the industry. quick learner, difficult worker and a team player. Self motivated and capable of working without supervision. Have valid class "G" drivers license and car with clean drivers record. EDUCATION ωGeorge Brown College HVAC Gas and Propane 2010 - gift ωWHMIS ( Workplace hazardous Materials Information System ) ωCWB Welding Certificate in Arc, Mig and Flux 2004 - 2005 WORK HISTORY Barbecue ProToronto Gas Technician AssistantFeb 2009 to Dec 2010 Read specifications, such as blueprints and data, to determine construction requirements. Assisted Service Technicians and new employees on installation and maintenance of gas appliances. M J ManufacturingToronto, Ontario Sheet Metal WorkerFeb 2008 to Jan 2009 Trimmed, grinded, deburred and welded seams and joints of assembled parts, using hand tools, portable power tools and welding equipment. TeknionToronto, Ontario WelderMarch 2005 to Oct 2007 clip workpieces, using powered saws, hand shears and chipping knife. Heated, formed and dressed metal parts, using hand tools, torch and welding equipment. Placement AgencyOttawa, Ontario LabourMay 1996 to Nov 2004 Assisted electricians, carpenters, roofers and plumbers in construction activities. References References will be provided upon request. You can download it if you want here. It is in Word Format and if you download it you will look it exactly the way I wrote it template format and every http://www.mediafire.com/?9oz0uxp2lpe6whi 10 points to the best helper! God bless and Merry Christmas! .
15 Dec 2010, 4:40 pm | click here to view more
Appliance installation? i have an electric frigidaire stove that had a 4 prong cord installed but i am now living in a home that has 3 prong outlets and because of that, i need to switch to a 3 prong cord, so i went to the store, got the cord and switched them out but now i ran into another porblem..i dnt look a grounding strap. now on the diagram for a 3 cord hookup , there are arrows pointing to a grounding strap and grounding screw. i look the screw but i dont look any strap. do i need to have the grounding strap for the stove to work properly? Im hesitant to plug the stove in because of this . i connected the wire to the terminals correctly but now the diagram is pointing to this strap that i think i might need. can i just call frigidaire to receive this strap or can i buy it in a store? Has anybody ever switched cords from a 4 prong to a 3 prong before? this stove is a 2008 electric glass/flat top frigidaire range. do newer stoves not even have the grounding strap because its assumed that everybody has a 4 prong outlet now and wouldnt need a 3 prong cord? please help! this is driving me crazy!! thanx!! thanks 4 the answers.. so its ok to plug it in even though i dont look a grounding strap from the neutral screw terminal to the grounding screw terminal..? so basically, a grounding strap is only needed when you are hooking up a 4 prong cord..rite?
18 Jan 2012, 10:02 am | click here to view more
I have a MasterBilt Ice Cream freezer and when I plug it in the compressor comes on and the unit will receive icy but once the compressor cycles off it won't arrive back on. I had an appliance repair guy look at it and he told me I need a new compressor but I watched how he diagnosed the problem and I'm not confident he knows what he's talking about. I hate to spend $500 on a compressor and installation only to find out that is was a relay or something else.
22 Jul 2010, 8:53 pm | click here to view more
Hello, My wife and I bought our home almost 3 years ago and the home is only 6 years old so we are ahead of the curve, however previous owners clip a lot of corners with moudlings and cabinets using alot or MDF and as I am replacing the moulding one room at a time I am not too savy at kitchen cabinets. So my questions is this they are in pretty rough shape and need a deep cleaning as well as repainted replace harware (hinges, knobs etc). There are a couple where the tracks have arrive off of some drawers where in that case I will just make it a untrue drawer but I am looking for any suggestions...this project is due to my wife wanting to redo the kitchen and I have tried to tell her that it is a 35-40k project with installation and appliances and right now its just not in the cards so rather than here her complain on a daily basis I figured I would put a bandaid on the current issue. Thank you in advance.
8 Jan 2012, 6:04 pm | click here to view more
Trained from HITACHI Guangzhou, China and Hitachi Appliances, Inc. Japan. Supervise and installation, testing, commissioning, maintenance of AIREDALE Precision Type, HITACHI (Package, SET-FREE Multi-Split System VRV, Ducted Split Type, Air-cooled Water Chiller and Water Cooled Chiller) and associated BMS control systems. So, can anybody give me a visa to work in uae? Please help me. monour_mb2005@yahoo.com. Mobile: 8801817040967
22 Nov 2009, 5:21 am | click here to view more
as a residential re-modeler. I have been looking for work for 4 moths and have had absolutely NO results. I have no college education, I am 37, married, with four kids. I cannot receive a job as a worker because I wind up being "over qualified". What can I do to change this? I have a resume, and have had three separate businesses in 19 years (business names/ changed for marketing purposes) I have great references, and the resume overall is simple to read, and nicely laid out. This is hitting difficult. I gave up looking for roughly two weeks out of four months and My wife seems to believe that not having work is 100% my vary fault. This economy is not in good shape at every, and every of us in the home improvement industries are fairly heavy hit. I have tried applying for design positions, sales, general labor, manufacturing, and services such as car repair, and appliance installation. I am extremely frustrated and have even seen a job counselor with little help at every to be offered. It seems a kid out of high school has a better chance being hired for better pay than I. I would be okay at even $15 per hour but no such luck.
29 Nov 2010, 9:56 pm | click here to view more
I am attempting to install a OTR microwave however the installation guide stats the maximum cabinet depth can only be 14'. My cabinets are 15 1/2' deep meaning the appliance is flush with the cabinets and the door will not open. My only solution is to mount a 2x4 behind the appliance before attaching the mounting bracket moving the appliance about an 1 1/2' forward allowing it to fit. Is this my only solution and is the correct solution ?
21 Mar 2010, 2:04 am | click here to view more
I guess this is silly, since difficult-wiring this sort of appliance makes a lot of sense... BUT... do they sell ductless range hoods that simply plug into a standard home plug? I'm asking because we are buying one for a tiny apartment,and there is no proper difficult-wired jack behind where the hood will go... but there is a standard 120v jack a little ways next to it on the way.... I could solve the installation really easy with a plug-in range hood. thanks
1 Nov 2009, 4:58 pm | click here to view more
I'm remodeling my 10x10 kitchen with new cabinets, granite countertop..and appliances and was wondering if it would be better to purchase every the stuff myself and then hire a general contractor to install everything or hire a kitchen remodel contractor that will do every that for me for one lump sump? I'm not looking to receive high end stuff...i'm more of a practical person. I've looked in to Home Depot & Lowe's and their installation doesn't include taking out the cabinets or counter-top so I would still need to hire someone else to do that. I'm not very handy. Which route has you done and any advice you can give me? Any idea as far as the price range it would cost? I'm not doing any extra plumbing or electrical wiring. I would adore to hear from some and your experience
19 Nov 2011, 1:07 pm | click here to view more
I know it is impossible to give a price on something without seeing it, but I would like to receive some opinions on what this would cost. 8' x 9' kitchen. 101" floor to ceiling. Galley style. I have appliances, we are looking at completely stripping the old kitchen and put in a new modern looking kitchen with clean lines. Knock out one wall with a doorway and add a support beam in it's place opening up that side. Taking back the walls on the other side of the kitchen to counter depth. This would eliminate the closed feeling of 1925 construction and give the open feeling I'm looking for. I have a price on the counters, floors, and backsplash...but the relax...demo, cabinets, installation...how much for every that?? I have gotten one quote from a contractor for 10k, and one for 40K. Help guide me! Please!
1 Jan 2011, 11:25 pm | click here to view more
Consumer Reports noted that a big number of fires are started inside appliances. They recommend that Arc-fault breakers be installed. But, according to Wikipedia: As of January 2008 .. The NEC requires the installation of Arc-fault breakers in every 15 and 20 ampere residential circuits with the exception of laundries, kitchens, bathrooms, garages and unfinished basements. But it's kitchens that have the appliances most liable to have an arc, causing a flame. I had the condo rewired recently, but no Arc-fault breakers breakers were installed. At that time I was unaware of these. (I'm not an electrician but am an EE). Should I go through and put in Arc-fault breakers? seems like an easy job. Advice? Sorry, Tex, you didn't address any of my questions. Can I install Arc-fault breakers for kitchen appliances and outlets?
6 Feb 2012, 1:38 pm | click here to view more
This is just an ice maker unit in an upscale kitchen. Makes cubes, they receive dumped into insullated Gallon sized tray which has a drain to take away water as the ice melts. I`ve been told that the unit worked fine after initial installation for about 6 months. Then homeowner opened drawer to access ice and there was steam in the unit. There was warm water flowing from where the ice cubes would be ejected from. Now unit will work okay for a short while then poof warm water. I was told they had appliance guys out twice. They say it is hooked up to hot water line. I was also told they had plumber out twice... first plumber useless, second had water supply disconnected and let run for 5 minutes and water stayed icy. Any ideas? every appreciated and thanks in advance.
3 Nov 2011, 10:30 pm | click here to view more
Hi, I guess this is one for the building project managers though estimates for independent bits of work also welcome! So I have an offer on a 1880's 2 bed terrace home in London that has been accepted. It needs a lot of work and I was hoping to receive an approximate "back of a fag packet" quote, we can receive in the home before exchange again with someone but id like some ball park figures so i don't go in naked, as it were! The following work is needed: *Roof spread repair. We have been quoted £2k for this but i'v already been told thats well north of where it should be. Needs some support beams in the loft and some walls to be pinned to the roof to cease future spread. * A total of about 55ft of wall needs new wet proof course. I'd be glad to take the current plaster off myself to keep costs but the re-plaster would have to be done by the wet company as I have no skill in that area (or anything that doenst involve hitting with a hammer!) * a new flat roof over the rear extension, its about 20ft x 6ft. The current 1 only has about 2 years life left. ^^^ These 3 repairs have to be done as part of a retention ^^^ --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After that we would like to modernise as the place is really dated. It needs: *Rewiring: Assume 3 double plugs in every room (5 rooms + landing + bathroom), recessed spotlights throughout. *2 UPVC Sash windows and a UPVC front door * Kitchen installation cost (expected cost of units+appliances £3k) * Bathroom installation (expected cost of white units £1500 - bath, sink, loo, victorian shower) * every the over to include labour + vat (assuming nothing done cash in hand for now, though the option is open :S ) I've guessed at around £20k very loosely! Many thanks for your help in advance. David P.S if it helps the home is a 2 up, 2 Down with a kitchen and bathroom extension built onto the ground floor. The 4 rooms exc extension are every about 11.5 x 10ft. The Kitchen and Bathroom extension are both 8.5 x 6 ft.
30 Dec 2011, 8:21 am | click here to view more
My husband has a 2005 Saturn Vue and I want to surprise him with a remote starter. I went to Mickey Shorr (Car audio), ABC Warehouse (electronics/appliances), and Best Buy. every gave me different prices and the $279 was the highest but unlike the other two, they offer a lifetime warranty on installation. They have to add an interface module plus labor which accounts for the additional cost. This also includes 2 fobs, opens doors and starts car. I would have to pay extra to have car trunk open and to have heat turn on. Is this a good price or should I keep shopping?!?!?! Help!
25 Feb 2010, 9:32 pm | click here to view more
I need a Use and Care Guide and appliance installation instructions for a Kitchen Aid double oven model kebc278kbt04
5 Jul 2010, 9:52 am | click here to view more
I have a refrigerator which is currently on the 20A dedicated circuit. I am planning to install the new over the range microwave on the same circuit. The ratings of the appliances are as follows: Refrigerator: 115V/60Hz, Max Amps: 4.5A Microwave: 120V/60Hz Max Amps: 12.5A Based on the ratings I look I can go upto a maximum of 17A at full load on both appliances. I wanted to confirm if I am making any sense? I am doing anything wrong? Will this be according to the code ( Illinois, US)? Please help me out. Thanks in advance. To add more details, the refrigerator is a 10 yr old Samsung Model RS2533SW. On the back of the refrigerator there is a sticker which says the MAX AMPS 4.5A. This also making me little suspicious coz 4.5A means it would only make it 517 Watts. Is this typical with old refrigerators? Rob. Thanks. I got 517 Watts based on 115/V and 4.5A. You are right about the loss in practical world. So is it typical for a refrigerator to have this ampere rating? Coz the new ones I look at the store are rated to use 10-12 Amps.
28 Apr 2010, 10:57 pm | click here to view more
I am in the process of buying the kitchen appliances for my home and I was wondering which is better, Lowes or Home Depot. I was wondering what they charge, if they need anything additional for installation, and what your overall assessment of them was.
17 Jul 2011, 4:49 pm | click here to view more
I have an assured shorthold contract for my home, arranged through a letting agency. A while ago one of the TV aerial connections (normal terrestrial TV, presumably coming from an aerial somewhere on the property) stopped working in the living room. The one in the kitchen is still working so it's obviously OK where it enters the home. Both I and a handyman sent by the agent have replaced the socket to no avail, so the problem's somewhere else. The agent and landlord say that repair of TV aerials is the tenant's responsibility (and the sending of an ineffective handyman was some nice of favour), and mentioned in the contract. I read that contract, and aerial equipment is not specifically mentioned. The landlord's obligations do state "...the repair of the structure and exterior and certain installations for the supply of water electricity and sanitation and for space heating or water heating (but not other fixtures fittings and appliances for making use of the supply of water and electricity)" I wouldn't say that this has anything to do with aerial equipment. The thing is, it's a listed building so it's not your standard roof aerial, but comes in through the floor somewhere and through the walls. The problem seems to be in some of this wiring in the walls and I fail to look how this could be a tenant's responsibility. So who's in the right here? To clarify, the property was rented as furnished. The aerial itself I cannot find, even in the attic room. If there's an aerial, a splitter it would appear to be in an area inaccessible to the tenants. If it's an issue with the wiring this, again, is inaccessible to the tenants.
26 Nov 2011, 7:54 am | click here to view more
At the end of December, my dishwasher gave up the ghost. So, I went and purchased another, from a national company in Canada, whom I have had dealings before. Long story short, the company had a great boxing week sale, so, I bought Boush Dishwasher for almost half price, and paid an additional installation fee of two hundred dollars for a certified plumber. This is one of the top lines... of dishwashers. The plumbers arrived, a lady and man. After two visits, which have totalled seven hours, I am left with a dishwasher that is not working. Additionally, I am still waiting for this company, to honor their agreement, in good faith. This new dishwasher was supposed to arrive today, but again, has been postponed till tomorrow. After several attempts I am feeling that I have been passed around, the bottom line is I no longer trust that this is not another guise, to offset me. I am left with a malfunctioning dishwasher, out eight hundred dollars, and trying to deal with a company that is quite oblivious to ethics it appeared. This is supposed to be a Top notch Company in Canada. Our prices are higher than in the USA, so this is a fair price by our standards. I have never encountered a company that does not stand by their appliances, or workman. So now I find myself, trying to deal with one employee after another, who seems to have no authority, but every insisit they are the acting floor manager. I am really beginning to feel, i am being scammed. Never have I experienced such a lack of service, commitment, from a company. So, what do you advise... I have written a letter to their Head Office, and it was returned.. by email.. Do I need to send a letter by registered mail to the store, as I purchased this Dec 28, with a delivery on January 4th. Has anyone experienced this nice of situation? I feel I have been transported to the Twilight Zone... by the employees of this firm... Thanks for the help, as I am in a quantry, and am uncertain as what to do now. I am astounished that any company cares so little for customer relations. Also, that I have not received what I paid for. I find myself at a loss as to know how to deal with this company. This is a real case of a lack of ethics, and fraudulent... so what are my options. Should I call the representatives of Boush? The Better Business Bureau? Who... Thanks for any help, it is appreciated... Would sending a registered letter to the store help? I am now concerned that, I may have to be sure this is signed before the thirty days is up... Incorrect spelling ~ Bosch.
20 Jan 2012, 3:08 pm | click here to view more
Summoning every Electricians! I recently purchased a GE Profile PB975SPSS Electric Range. In the "Installation Instructions", it states that "a range cord rated at 40 amps with 125/250 min volt range is required. A 50 amp range cord is not recommended but if used, it should be marked for use with nominal 1 3/8 A (upside down A) diameter connection openings. My problem is that I have a 50 amp (4-prong) receptacle plug, and a 50amp circuit in the circuit breaker for my current range. I'm wondering if: A) I can use a 4-prong 50amp plug with this appliance rated for 40amps? B) Why the installation instructions state that it is "not recommended?" If I can't do A, then what course of action do I take? Please help! --Henry Thanks to every who provided answers. Just to clarify, if I change out the circuit breaker to a 40amp circuit, can I still use a 4-prong 50amp cord & 50amp recepticle plug? Thanks again, but if someone wouldn't mind just clarifying that it's not big deal to use a 4-prong, 50 amp plug and 50 amp receptacle plug on a 40 amp circuit, I'd appreciate it. Thanks! -- Henry
12 Jan 2011, 2:53 pm | click here to view more
I am talking about the one that you install in the wall, not a window. This is a pretty much permanent installation.
2 Sep 2011, 10:20 am | click here to view more
As a handy man, is a license required by the state to install gas appliances in Minnesota?
3 Nov 2010, 7:21 pm | click here to view more
Making a career or of these and salary, which pays the highest and is the best in demand to receive into? •Agriculture/agricultural sciences •Air transportation services •Animal training •Aquaculture operations and production management •Architectural drafting •car/automotive body repair •Building/property maintenance and management •Business machine repair •Cabinet making and millworking •Carpentry •Civil/structural drafting •Clothing, apparel, and textile work and management •Commercial garment and apparel services •Commercial photography •Communication systems installation and repair •Computer installation and repair •Conservation and renewable natural resources •Construction trades •Crop production operations and management •Custodial services •Dietician assistance •Diving (Professional) •Drafting •Dry cleaning and laundering (Commercial) •Electrician •flame protection •Fishing technology/commercial fishing •Food catering •Forestry •Graphic and printing equipment operation •Greenhouse operations and management •Heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration •Home furnishings and equipment installation and consultation •Horticulture services operations and management •Industrial design •Industrial machinery maintenance and repair •Instrument calibration and repair •Landscaping operations and management •Locksmithing and safe repair •Machinist/machine technology •Major appliance installation and repair •Marine maintenance and boat repair •Masonry and tile setting •Mechanical drafting •Nursery operations and management •Ornamental horticulture operations and management •Painting and wall covering •Plumbing and pipe fitting •Precision metal working •Sheet metal working •Shoe, boot, and leather repair •tiny engine mechanical and repair services •Stationary energy sources installation and operation •Tool and die making/technology •Transportation and materials moving •Vehicle and equipment operation •Vehicle and mobile equipment mechanical and repair services •Watch, clock, and jewelry repair •Water transportation services •Welding •Window treatment making and installation •Woodworking
14 Nov 2011, 10:43 pm | click here to view more
I bought a new double oven rated at 7.2kw for 240volt. The installation manual calls out for a 30 amp breaker. This would dictate for me to install a 2p-30amp breaker and run 3#10 + ground to the new appliance. My question is: Why is the difficult-wired "whip" that is physically connected to the double oven only 2#12, 1#14, and a ground??? I am not concerned about the #14 down-rated neutral wire, but rather im concerned about the 2#12 current carrying conductors because these should be #10.
24 Feb 2011, 4:26 pm | click here to view more
I recently had a new service entry put on my home to replace an older one after I had a solar unit installed, requiring more capacity then the old service entry. After the installation of the service entry, the circuit breakers trip regularly for kitchen appliances, including a stove, coffee maker, and toaster. The stove has its possess circuit, and it regularly trips when I have maybe two burners on, or one burner and the oven, or just one burner at times. Prior to the new service entry, I never had a problem with the stove or my other appliances on the separate circuit. My electrician is saying that my old service entry was old and not functioning properly, and now the breakers are functioning normally. He also said maybe I need a new oven (mine is only 10 years old). Does anyone know what the potential problems might be with the new service entry, or do I just have to live with flipping the triggered breakers several times a week? Thanks
15 Aug 2011, 1:50 pm | click here to view more
Making a career or of these and salary, which pays the highest and is the best in demand to receive into? •Agriculture/agricultural sciences •Air transportation services •Animal training •Aquaculture operations and production management •Architectural drafting •car/automotive body repair •Building/property maintenance and management •Business machine repair •Cabinet making and millworking •Carpentry •Civil/structural drafting •Clothing, apparel, and textile work and management •Commercial garment and apparel services •Commercial photography •Communication systems installation and repair •Computer installation and repair •Conservation and renewable natural resources •Construction trades •Crop production operations and management •Custodial services •Dietician assistance •Diving (Professional) •Drafting •Dry cleaning and laundering (Commercial) •Electrician •flame protection •Fishing technology/commercial fishing •Food catering •Forestry •Graphic and printing equipment operation •Greenhouse operations and management •Heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration •Home furnishings and equipment installation and consultation •Horticulture services operations and management •Industrial design •Industrial machinery maintenance and repair •Instrument calibration and repair •Landscaping operations and management •Locksmithing and safe repair •Machinist/machine technology •Major appliance installation and repair •Marine maintenance and boat repair •Masonry and tile setting •Mechanical drafting •Nursery operations and management •Ornamental horticulture operations and management •Painting and wall covering •Plumbing and pipe fitting •Precision metal working •Sheet metal working •Shoe, boot, and leather repair •tiny engine mechanical and repair services •Stationary energy sources installation and operation •Tool and die making/technology •Transportation and materials moving •Vehicle and equipment operation •Vehicle and mobile equipment mechanical and repair services •Watch, clock, and jewelry repair •Water transportation services •Welding •Window treatment making and installation •Woodworking
14 Nov 2011, 10:42 pm | click here to view more
I just asked the question below, but need to know if a 3 wire outlet is just a normal American outlet. Is that the case or are there specific outlets dedicated to dryers? This is the first one myself and my roommates are buying so there is no previous dryer to base it off of. Thanks guys! --- I'm buying a dryer off of Sears.com and they are telling me I need to receive an electric dryer cord with my dryer. Without explaining the difference between any of these, they stupidly give me these options: 6 Foot, 4 Wire Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 4 Foot, 3 Wire, 30 amp Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 3 Wire, 6 Foot Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 4 Foot, 4 Wire, 30 amp Electric Dryer Cord $20.99 These parts are needed to install your appliance. For proper installation, existing parts cannot be reused. I'm buying a Kenmore 500 7.0 cu. ft. Electric Dryer. Does anyone know which cord I need to receive? Thank you!!!
13 Oct 2010, 2:12 pm | click here to view more
The kitchen is like on two sides of a corridor. there are three pathways to the kitchen,one from hallway, one from dining and the other from back conservatory. I am planning to close one door and make it U shaped kitchen. I want to make it a 18 unit kitchen. I have every appliances. I am based in London.I have got appointments in Wickes, Home base, B & Q next week. I have not yet visited IKEa yet. The kitchen designer from Moben kitchens came home took measurements and said the cost for black units with laminate worktop would cost 33000£. He said it would arrive down to 15000£ after 50% offer + some nice of deal, he said. I was shocked at the amount. Is the kitchen so costly. Which is better amongst the high road stores? Do I go for a local builer for installation instead of the store installation? How much would be a 18 unit kitchen to buy(without applicances? I would like a tall larder unit, 3 drawer unit, spice rack, floor and wall cabinets, and a laminate worktop with high gloss black kitchen. Please help me with the approximate cost. I am still recovering from the moben kitchen designer's cost.
19 Jun 2010, 5:10 pm | click here to view more
We have oak cabinets that are almost 20 years old and have taken on a yellow/red hue to them. At the time of installation they were quite cheap and definitely look like it! We're doing some re-decorating and can't afford new ones so we thought painting would do the trick! We have creamy walls, almond appliances, white counter tops, and are going to receive wood floors. We're hoping to go for an old world look but don't want it to be too dark or too much. Any ideas!? Hmmmm...the only thing is though with the new floors we didn't want the grain to show as much. We thought it would be too busy in our smaller kitchen?
14 Sep 2009, 3:57 pm | click here to view more
In our contract for our home it states: Landlord agrees to carry out repairing obligations as required by section 11 of the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985. Our bath has been leaking through the roof to downstairs for the last 3 months. Can anyone tell me if this is enough to terminate our contract so that we can move out? Clause from the Act: 1(b) to keep in repair and proper working order the installations in the dwellinghouse for the supply of water, gas and electricity and for sanitation (including basins, sinks, baths and sanitary conveniences, but not other fixtures, fittings and appliances for making use of the supply of water, gas or electricity). So obviously he hasn't done this nor seems like he intends to so i presume this is a breach of the contract. Can we move out next month before the rent is due? Or do we need to give him some sort of notice?
22 Mar 2010, 9:26 am | click here to view more
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