Electrical Appliances
Appliance Installations Directory - Please make your Selection;
Also where I can inquire here in the Philippines (NCR) about the installation of Solar Power Energy?
2 Sep 2009, 7:38 pm | click here to view more
My husband has a 2005 Saturn Vue and I want to surprise him with a remote starter. I went to Mickey Shorr (Car audio), ABC Warehouse (electronics/appliances), and Best Buy. every gave me different prices and the $279 was the highest but unlike the other two, they offer a lifetime warranty on installation. They have to add an interface module plus labor which accounts for the additional cost. This also includes 2 fobs, opens doors and starts car. I would have to pay extra to have car trunk open and to have heat turn on. Is this a good price or should I keep shopping?!?!?! Help!
25 Feb 2010, 9:32 pm | click here to view more
I just got my Windows 7 Ultimate Retail OEM (woohoo) and I'm going to do a clean installation of this OS on my computer. I luckily still have every of the Driver CDs for my hardware and appliances, so drivers won't be an issue. The only thing is, well, where I'm going to back up every of my stuff. Hold on, I'm gonna finish my backup folder so I can give a final size... ... Okay, 153GB. I currently have my Backup stuff on my secondary difficult steer, which is used only for space. The real question is: When I finish installing Windows 7 and every that, will my partitioned secondary difficult steer still be usable/accessible, and every of my backup stuff will still be on it? Will I be able to access the secondary steer without any prerequisite actions? I just want to make sure that everything is a go. Thanks !
27 Oct 2009, 3:39 pm | click here to view more
i have an in-sink-erator disposal. it is relatively old as far as appliances go. when i flip the Switch it hum-ms but nothing happens. i have been to many sites on how to free up the grinding blades, clearing debris, etc. i have also tried to use the allen wrench that came with it, in the hole below the unit to try to dislodge and receive the flywheel to free up. my little tool is not helping. no matter how difficult i try to turn it is in permanent stuck mode. do i need to just replace the unit, and is that something i can do myself? (i am pretty handy around the home when i comes to things like that.) the plumber that put it in for us was an ass and charged up mega bucks for the installation. so i am leary about calling plumber to fix it. i really wouldn't use it much anyways. it hasn't worked for so long that i dint even try to use it anymore. so what are my options? am i missing something simple that i can do myself or is my only sure bet to call that assy plumber back? pertinent advice appreciated. and please don't try to be cute. this is a serious matter. thanks! i think i have decided to just remove the thing. it is pretty gross inside considering it is at least 3-5 years old. theres black sludge in the grinding mechanism. and besides they always stink. who has faith that i can do this myself? on a side note, i am currently using my trash can, so thank you to the dude who advised me to use my trashcan. i never would have thought of that on my possess.
23 Oct 2008, 4:32 am | click here to view more
I bought a washing machine and dryer from Sears on Black Friday, and I heard recently that they were possibly going bankrupt...Does this mean that the money I payed for these appliances and the money for the installation are going to be lost?? Thanks
9 Dec 2008, 11:03 pm | click here to view more
Safety One cease-valve may control water to two or more houses In older properties. Before turning off the water supply you must inform your neighbours. You are liable for any damages to their water and heating systems if you fail to do so. A icy water supply Pipes are fed from a high pressure main in the road, which feed most British homes. This communication pipe goes to an external cease-valv(the water company cease valve), to the property’s boundary. Below ground level, the cease valve is set in a guard pipe to protect from any damages. The cease valve may have a square spigot or a tee spigot which is set in a guard pipe below guard level, it may be turned on or off with a long-handled key. To cease contamination backflow from entering the mains supply, cease valves must only allow water to flow in one direction. A Short plastic key controls the cease valves water meter when one is incorporated, some modern cease valves are also made of plastic. The cease valve is insulated by a moulded block of insulation material which lowers the transfer of heat. A internal water supply Direct and indirect are the two types of supply. The icy water taps and the sanitary appliances on a direct icy water supply are fed directly off the rising main. There is a risk of water becoming contaminated in older systems with out check valves, due to backflow (water flows back into the mains) and such installation are no longer permitted in new housing. A Direct supply system To eleminate the danger of bacterial contamination. the dirct supply system must be fitted with a modern boiler, anti-syphon and backflow divices which complies with most modern water by-laws. When the water is below constant mains pressure, the rish of freezing is reduced. It does however, slightly increase the risks of leaking joints, this is why the system is easy to install. To maintain a good quantity of water at adequate pressure during peak periods, the system is recommended where there is sufficient mains water supply. A indirect system Mains water, for drinking, is available at the kitchen tap only. This can also supply washing machines and a garden tap, which must be fitted with a check valve, the indirect system supplies every sanitary appliances such as hand basins, showers, baths and WCs – with water fed from a storage tank. An indirect system has advantages such as tank fed-water being at low pressure, reducing noise and the likelihood of leaks. A high-pressured system would produce more water and do more damage than a low pressured system, and there is less wear and tear on valves and washers. Pump boosted showers can onl be fed from this type of system. The indirect system is vulnerable to frost damage if not properly installed and lagged, it is also more expensive to install (more pipe-work and tanks). If the water supply is clip off, the dwelling still has plenty of stored water for essential use. Modern lagging enables this to be carried out easily. To protect from contamination and infection, recent water regulation insists that icy water storage tanks are fitted with kits, thus making the water potable (drinkable).
4 Jan 2009, 12:29 pm | click here to view more
A Linux environment is needed to complete Activity 1 of this lab. You will need to complete Step 1 and 2 below before starting on Activity 1: 1. Install vmplayer a) Use the following link to download VMplayer: http://www.vmware.com/products/player/ b) After downloading, install and configure the vmplayer on your home computer by following the installation instructions available through vmware. You need to ensure that virtual machine is working and connectivity is active. 2. Install Fedora a) Download the Fedora Core 5 Workstation installation from here: http://www.vmware.com/vmtn/appliances/directory/60 Activity 1 Description In Part 2 of the textbook Operating Systems, read Chapter 8 and complete the lab projects at the end of the chapter. Problem The problems are defined in the lab project manual. Procedure/Steps Note: Maintain a point-form journal of every actions you take while completing the lab, describing each step in your possess words. Include any notes of steps or components within the labs that you are unsure of or that you feel require clarification. The overall goal of a point-form journal is to create notes that accurately describe actions you perform. These notes can be used for troubleshooting problems or for when you are repeating a similar task. The notes should appear in sequential order and be in an organized format which allows you to easily access the information. Step 1: Create a Linux-based tree structure. Step 2: Review the basic Linux commands used to create a tree structure. Step 3: Reinforce your understanding of the Linux-based tree structure. Step 4: Distinguish between navigating to a parent, child, and sibling directories in Linux. Step 5: Utilize the Linux (vi) editor to append, insert, yank, put, and delete text in a file. Step 6: Create files and directories, identifying the columns of the output of the Is –I command. Step 7: Utilize the sort command to sort data. Step 8: Utilize the clip and diff commands to manipulate text in a file. Step 9: Utilize the grep command to search for data within a file and use the find command to search for file names in Linux. Step 10: Utilize the redirection and pipe symbols in Linux. Step 11: Utilize the Linux Wildcard symbols. Step 12: Practice utilizing the sort, grep, and awk commands. Outcome Utilize and work with the Linux operating system.
21 Aug 2009, 10:01 pm | click here to view more
I am buying my first home and the appliance that are in there absolutely have to go (most don't even work, let alone they are 20 years old). I want to receive good stuff, but I don't need the top of the line. I want to receive a good deal on my appliances, but I want to receive the job done right. I work in IT so I would consider myself pretty savvy. I have searched online at various retailers, compared what a lot of models have to offer, have a general price point of what items may cost. I also went in to Home Depot, Pacific Sales, Sears, Sears Outlet, Costco, etc. So I am in San Diego and I want to buy a refrigerator, cook top (30" gas), wall oven (30"), microwave/hood combo (over cook top). What suggestions might everyone on here have at getting the best deal possible? Where might you recommend I store to find the best deal? What about possible rebates, coupons, etc.? Any specific things to look out for when purchasing? Warranty? Installation? Possible (or not) package deal savings? What about fitment? Might I have issues with various 30" appliances fitting in where the previous Magic cook 30" stuff is already? I can take pictures and exact measurements, maybe that can help in purchasing more precisely? Here are some possible items I can look myself buying based on the knowledge I have now... Kenmore Stainless Steel 25.0 cu. ft. Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_04678503000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Refrigerators&sName=Bottom+Freezers Kenmore Elite 30" Stainless Wall Oven http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02248043000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Cooking+Appliances&sName=Wall+Ovens Bosch 30" Stainless Oven http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02242333000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Cooking+Appliances&sName=Wall+Ovens Kenmore Elite 30" Stainless Gas Cook Top http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02242333000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Cooking+Appliances&sName=Wall+Ovens Kenmore PRO 30" Stainless Cook Top http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02231003000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Cooking+Appliances&sName=Cooktops You receive the idea.... THANKS!! Regarding craigslist. I have been looking for the last 1-2 weeks and the only thing I have seen that looks like I can find an ample amount of on there are Refrigerators. I can receive a good deal on one of those and Washer/Dryer. But buying an oven and cook top on there seems difficult to find and not the nice/size/color I want (yet).
3 Sep 2009, 1:11 am | click here to view more
We recently replace four light fixtures (two tiny, two biggish) in our home and plan on replacing two ceiling fans as well. I don't want to just chuck the fixtures in the trash, since they're still good. The raw materials could be recycled at the very least. Goodwill doesn't accept appliances that require installation, so donating them doesn't seem to be an option.
17 Jun 2009, 2:43 pm | click here to view more
I paid out of pocket to put in the front step and sidewalk and the trim work and staining etc. My parents gave me tile for the kitchen dining area and i paid for the grout and installation. Also I had allowances for carpet and appliances and i went a good deal over budget, would i be able to itemize the difference?
7 Feb 2010, 9:58 pm | click here to view more
My wife and I looked at a home yesterday that definitely has some problems and I was wondering approximately how expensive various projects would cost.. any help on providing rough cost & time estimates for any of the following is appreciated: 1) Install automatic garage door. The garage is already wired appropriately for this, but lacks the motor & installation. 2) Install hardwood flooring. We would like to do this project on our possess in the kitchen, dining room, living room and hallway. It seems most people suggest floating hardwood floors, so that's probably what we would do. 3) Some baseball-sized holes in the wall (would this just be spackle?) 4) Remove existing two toilets and replace with brand new toilets 5) New carpet in two bedrooms (old carpet has already been removed) 6) A few tiles on the roof are missing 7) Repainting whole home (approx 1500 sqft of living space) - we will be doing this ourselves. 8) Painting/Replacing cabinet doors in kitchen. Addition of knobs/handles. 9) Removing satellite dish from side of home (presumably there would be some fixes to the siding too?) 10) Need to buy appliances: refrigerator, stove, washer, dryer (I think this one is approx ~$2500?) 11) Two tiny spots look like they have mild mold.. one in the bathroom and one in the basement. Umm.. yeah, any help is appreciated. We're deciding if we want to buy it. It's clearly been foreclosed, and needs some work, but structurally it's sound (basement looks great).
26 Jun 2009, 8:54 am | click here to view more
My very old electric clothes dryer recently died. A pal offered me her used propane gas dryer -- not sure how old it is, but most likely not extremely energy efficient. Of course I already have the 220 hookup for an electric dryer but I would have to pay to have the gas lines/vent/tank installed. I pay .12997 per KWH, propane in my area is 4.09/gallon and I do about 10 loads of laundry per week. At this point, I have every electric appliances but would eventually like to go to gas stove & water heater as well, but would wait for the ones I possess to wear out -- which they show no signs of doing at this point. I am talking from a completely financial point of view. I do greatly prefer a gas oven over an electric one and I do prefer clothing from a gas dryer, but can live with an electric one. below these circumstances, does it make sense for me to take my pal's free propane dryer and pay for the installation of the needed gas paraphenalia and buy a new gas dryer when hers dies or s should I buy a new electric dryer with the money I will keep from not having to set up for propane?
12 May 2008, 10:53 am | click here to view more
I'm thinking of remodeling my kitchen and using a $25 hr. unlicensed handyman (who has his possess health insurance from his spouse) for most of it and other occasional workers. Do they sell 1-2 month policies? How do I receive one; through my current homeowners insurance company or a separate company? Do they need to know the names of the workers or does it cover any worker? Do I even need one if each segment of the labor for the job is below $500, e.g., tare out separate, new cabinet installation separate, plumbing separate, appliance installation separate, etc.?
14 Sep 2008, 1:32 pm | click here to view more
Got a quote to install Shaw Natural Values laminate throughout my entire first floor. They will remove every existing carpet in the living and dining rooms, vinyl in the kitchen, and hardwood in the foyer. They will also handle moving every furniture and appliances and price includes underlayment and transitions. Basically, it comes out to a little over $7/sq ft for the installation.
8 Apr 2009, 5:41 pm | click here to view more
Trained from HITACHI Guangzhou, China and Hitachi Appliances, Inc. Japan. Supervise and installation, testing, commissioning, maintenance of AIREDALE Precision Type, HITACHI (Package, SET-FREE Multi-Split System VRV, Ducted Split Type, Air-cooled Water Chiller and Water Cooled Chiller) and associated BMS control systems. So, can anybody give me a visa to work in uae? Please help me. monour_mb2005@yahoo.com. Mobile: 8801817040967
22 Nov 2009, 5:21 am | click here to view more
We are doing kitchen remodeling That includes new cabinets and new counter top etc. I have an over the range microwave (every appliances in white color). I would like to replace with over the range stainless steel microwave. At what stage should i install the appliances? and what should i tell the cabinet guys to install the cabinets so it is conducive to the microwave installation..I am really confused. Please help.
7 Aug 2009, 4:04 pm | click here to view more
Im applying for a job at best buy. I am pretty good with computers, software and i like technology overall, so i guess Best Buy will be a good place for me to work. When i started to fill an application the positions part got me stuck: Appliance Sales Specialist Appliance Sales Supervisor Best Buy Mobile Wireless Sales In-Store Manager Geek Squad Automotive Installation Technician Customer Service Specialist Geek Squad In-Home Computer/Electronic Technician Geek Squad In-Store Computer/Electronic Technician Loss Prevention Merchandising Music,Software, Gaming Non-Commissioned Sales Can anyone explain to me what those positions mean ? Im currently a senior in high school, 18 years old. I could apply for Geek Squad but they might need some extra qualifications. And i would like to be in the computers department if possible, But basically anywhere will be fine ( well probably without kitchen appliances) Thank you for your time =]
10 Sep 2008, 6:42 pm | click here to view more
I'm interested in buying a Kenmore Elite dishwasher (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02213163000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Dishwashers&sName=Built-In+Dishwashers ). I currently have a GE model in a standard space below my counter. The height for the new dishwasher from the Sears Web site is 34.5 inches. Other dishwashers on the Sears website list heights below 34 inches (like 33 7/8 inches). It appears that my counter is just about 34 inches tall. I measured the dishwasher and it appears to be able to fit, but it's a situation where it was close enough that I don't really want to take the risk that it won't fit. One factor is the fact that I would have to pay a 15% restocking fee if I have to return the unit. I tried calling Kenmore and stopped after I was given 4 different numbers to try. I wish someone here has some insights. Thanks.
6 Jun 2008, 10:28 am | click here to view more
We have oak cabinets that are almost 20 years old and have taken on a yellow/red hue to them. At the time of installation they were quite cheap and definitely look like it! We're doing some re-decorating and can't afford new ones so we thought painting would do the trick! We have creamy walls, almond appliances, white counter tops, and are going to receive wood floors. We're hoping to go for an old world look but don't want it to be too dark or too much. Any ideas!? Hmmmm...the only thing is though with the new floors we didn't want the grain to show as much. We thought it would be too busy in our smaller kitchen?
14 Sep 2009, 3:57 pm | click here to view more
DIRECTV installed the box with the ground wire installed over the box. Could this have allowed the lightning to arrive in the home and randomly burn out various appliances, i.e., dryer but not washer, dishwasher, but not microwave or stove; one tv but not another which was on a power surge, and burn up every wiring to the alarm system as well as the garage doors. The reason I ask is because DIRECTV came to fix their problem, and the technician told us that whoever installed the ground wire for the initial DIRECTTV installation did it incorrectly. DIRECTV subcontractor claims it is an Act of God. Also, is DIRECTV responsible for their subcontractors?
22 Oct 2008, 11:45 am | click here to view more
I live in the US where power comes into our home as 220vac and is split at the breaker panel to the separate 220vac and 110vac branches. My computer like almost every computers has a selector switch to switch it from 110vac input voltage to 220vac input voltage. So does some of my other electronics, and some of them will switch automatically. My home is currently wired to run most items on 110vac, but like a lot of homes a lot of the energy hungry appliances like my clothes dryer, and 1 of my air conditioners uses 220vac. It's easy enough to add a few 220vac outlets to my home, and I would have the electrical inspector arrive in and inspect the installation before using it. The parts needed with exception to the outlets would be free to me because I have tore down several homes that were no longer fit to live in and I saved the wiring including electric range power wires, 220vac air conditioner wires and 220v electric dryer wiring. I also have every the 110v wiring, so I have a very wide supply of wiring available for use at no cost to me should I go through with my idea. I also have 15, 20, 25, 30, and 40 amp breakers (and several higher that would not apply), and plenty of room in my breaker panel for upgrades. My idea is to add wiring to my home to support running my appliances that are capable of running on 220vac to run on it using outlets specifically for 220vac use. For an example, my computer. I can buy a cord for 220vac use off of Ebay for a few dollars, and maybe have $10 invested total. So would it be more efficient to run my appliances capable of doing so on 220vac? Are there any laws that I am not aware of at the national level preventing me from doing this? Can you provide links to websites for more information please? I attempted searching Google, but the results for the terms I entered were totally unrelated.
1 Aug 2008, 4:48 am | click here to view more
I am looking at buying a home in a subdivision, however most of the neighborhood is on community propane, and residents report $400-500 / month in the winter(temps mid-30s) to keep the home at a "tolerable" 60-65 degrees, not including water heater and oven range. Part of my negotiation is either including installation of natural gas or financing the conversion and appliance swap. Does anyone know about how much it will cost to convert the home from propane to natural gas? I know there is a main nearby, and the closest home I know of (we would have bought it but someone else already did) that has natural gas is about 100 yards away.
30 Aug 2009, 8:05 am | click here to view more
It's part of gas installations
14 Mar 2009, 12:18 am | click here to view more
1. During the percolating cycle of a coffee maker, the heating element should keep the water at a minimum temperature of A. 220 C (720 F). B. 380 C (1000 F). C. 1000 C (2120 F). D. 2300 C (4500 F). 2. The tiny gear that is driven by the motor shaft of a rotisserie is called a A. ring gear. B. sleeve gear. C. planetary gear. D. pinion gear. 3. The percolating temperature of an automatic percolator is kept at the desired level by the A. ON/OFF switch. B. thermostat. C. automatic valve. D. low-heat element. 4. When testing a plugged-in but partly disassembled toaster, you should push the rack down with a A. wooden stick. B. piece of wire. C. finger. D. narrow wrench. 5. What may happen if the threaded heating element in a percolator is not very tightly mounted? A. The coffee may be too weak. B. The heating element may be open circuited. C. The heating element may be short circuited. D. A leak may develop. 6. Wires used for electrical connections in a rotisserie should be insulated with A. mica. B. difficult rubber. C. thermoplastic. D. fiberglass. 7. If a cylindrical heating element has bare connecting wires, they should be protected by sleeves made of A. fiberglass. B. varnished cambric. C. mica. D. plastic. 8. A recommended cleaner for the bowls of coffee brewers is A. a baking-soda solution. B. scouring powder. C. abrasive soap. D. a vinegar-water solution. 9. Which one of the following tools should be used to remove the nut from a threaded heating element? A. Vice grips B. Nut driver C. Socket wrench D. Gas pliers 10. A heating element for a cooking appliance is stretched too far during installation. What action can be performed? A. Dispose of the element and purchase a new one. B. Chill the element in a freezer to shrink it. C. Recoil the element over a rod. D. clip the element to shorten it. 11. The toasting cycle of an automatic toaster is started by A. turning on the built-in switch. B. pushing the bread rack down. C. setting the thermostat knob. D. pushing the start button. 12. What is the most likely cause of a percolator's failure to pump water? A. The water is too hot. B. The basket is damaged. C. There is too much water in the percolator. D. There is coffee sediment in the well. 13. The LIGHT/DARK control of an automatic toaster is placed at a particular setting. The toast at this setting will always be the same color because the toaster uses A. guard wires. B. a compensating thermostat. C. rack springs. D. a heavy metal shell. 14. When plug prongs are connected to the metal case of an appliance, a part that should always be placed next to the case is a A. flat metal washer. B. hexagonal aluminum shoulder. C. steel nut. D. mica washer. 15. Which one of the following faults causes the coffee in a brewer to keep boiling after the brewing cycle is finished? A. An open circuit in the heating element B. Welded contacts on the thermostat C. A leak around the gasket D. A short circuit at the terminals 16. When you check a toaster with a digital or analog VOM, which one of the following indicates dirty contacts on the thermostat blade? A. Current higher than the rated current. B. Full deflection on the ohmmeter or a reading of zero ohms. C. Current lower than the rated current. D. No deflection on the ohmmeter or high resistance on the display. 17. An appliance plug can be distinguished from other plugs by its A. female terminals, thermostat, and probe. B. three prongs. C. permanent attachment to an appliance. D. metal construction. 18. A digital clock on a tiny cooking appliance keeps time by A. using an internal crystal oscillator at 60 Hz. B. locking on to the power line frequency. C. creating its possess 60 Hz. squarewave. D. monitoring the frequency of a quartz-timed oscillator 19. If a rotisserie motor hums but the spit does not turn when the rotisserie is started, the cause is most probably A. a lack of supply voltage. B. overheated elements. C. a defective motor. D. jammed gears. 20. Why can some electric appliances be immersed in water without damage? A. They use a ribbon heating element on a mica sheet. B. The heavy aluminum shell protects the thermostat. C. The thermostat and the timer are in a sealed compartment below the pan. D. The heating element is sealed and the control is in the detachable probe. 21. The purpose of the probe on an appliance plug with a thermostat is to A. connect the plug electrically to the heating elements. B. give mechanical support to the plug. C. transfer heat from the pan to the thermostat blade. D. connect the thermostat with the timer. 22. The time required for epoxy-resin cement to set is about A. 1 hr. B. 2 hrs. C. 3 hrs. D. 4 hrs. 23. The housing at the side of a rotisserie contains A. one heating element, the spit handle, and two skewers. B. the motor, the gears, the timer, and the thermostat. C. the racks, the timer springs, and the pilot lamp. D. two heating elements and the switch. 24. The two outputs of a digital controller for an automatic drip coffee maker are for the time A. and water temperature displays. B. and date displays. C. display and relay output. D. display and pilot light. 25. A hammer should not be applied to the gear shafts of an electric rotisserie because the shafts may be made of A. brass. B. aluminum. C. steel. D. copper.
18 Jun 2008, 5:14 pm | click here to view more
My husband and I just bought a home in Herndon, Va. The home was built in 1983, and I think EVERYTHING is original to the home. The kitchen has never been updated. The shelves inside bow towards the middle and the toe kick on the bottom of the shelves and the island are missing pieces. Overall it looks totally ugly. I think the cabinets are cheap laminate and particle board although I am not 100% certain of this. I like the layout, so we don't need a renovation, but I would like to replace the cabinets, put down laminate flooring and replace the countertops with something affordable/durable. Do you think this is possible with a $5000 budget (including installation? Our kitchen size is pretty tiny. I'd say 10x10, or slightly bigger. The only appliance we plan on upgrading is the dishwasher. What do you think? Thanks.
12 May 2009, 5:30 pm | click here to view more
things have become not clear since the change from Corgi to Gas Safe Register
16 Apr 2009, 4:03 am | click here to view more
I just bought a 32-inch Toshiba LCD TV from the Appliance store last Saturday, it went well with the installation, then when i connect the Coaxial cable to the LCD tv, i just realized that there is no difference in the picture and the sound when you used an Analog Cable TV. is there any difference in picture and sound when i watched an Analog cable on to my Digital LCD TV?
30 Mar 2009, 3:24 am | click here to view more
The dishwasher in our rental property went out a week ago. We don't want to replace it because it's a non-essential appliance, because our tenant is a pain and, more importantly, because we hadn't realized that if you're not getting extra rent for it, there's no sense having a dishwasher, which is just a liability. I've done some research and it looks like even if we receive a fairly decent model (about $300 + delivery + installation), the reliability is quite low. Our possess dishwasher goes out religiously every 10 months, and it's enough trouble dealing with it. We don't need the headache of supplying this luxury to tenants paying student prices. The lease doesn't exclude it (as it does with trash disposals, etc.) but it doesn't specifically include it. Help!
13 Apr 2009, 10:16 am | click here to view more
I live in MD and an old stupid governor signed a new electric bill in 2000 to increase BGE power fees for the next 12 years or so. Electricity rate hike is in effect at 50% increase plus 5%-7% yearly until 2012. And MD govenrment declined the installation of windmills and extra power plants to provide power demand, yet, they rather charge the citizens more money than to offer solutions. We know who's getting paid and not the FBI nor the home of Delegates want to launch a corruption investigation. Instead of moving out of MD, I would like to be power independent from these greedy corrupted politicians- Such wealthy clowns now- I wonder why.... ???
20 Jul 2008, 11:37 pm | click here to view more
Here's the context: I am moving soon and my new apartment has a place (and every the installation like water for it) for a washing machine right next to the oven but has no place for a drying machine nor the installation for the dryer (no air leave and no dryer outlet). I already have a washing machine and a dryer (but no oven and no fridge, but that's not really helpful here), and would like to maximize "laundry efficiency" and cost. Knowing that someone is offering 800$ for both dryer and washing machine, what would be the best solution for me? Here is a list of solutions I thought about, I'd really appreciate comments about cost, feasibility and efficiency on them. I am completely open to new ideas. 1. Sell both dryer and washing machine and buy a two in one running on 120V, using the window for the air leave; 2. Attempt to sell the dryer (maybe not possible... or not at a good price if alone) and hang my laundry around the apartment to dry it; 3. Place the dryer on top of the washing machine (both load by a front door) if the space permits it (I haven't taken any measurements yet), take the air leave of the dryer through the window (even if Canadian winters are quite icy) and plug the dryer in the oven's outlet. (Is that even possible? the oven outlet is 14-50R while the dryer's outlet is 14-30R... I'd need an adapter... How dangerous is it to plug a 30A max appliance on a 40A (or 50A, I'm not sure) breaker?) Thanks in advance! This situation is bugging me quite a bit.
13 Dec 2009, 6:55 pm | click here to view more
so, i found these shelves in my home, on the side that touches the wall, there are three evenly spaced holes, one hole on the left end, one hole in the middle, and one hole on the right end. The holes have a bracket like on a speaker or router, where you drill a screw into the wall and hang the appliance, and the screw head can go into the big part of the hole, but the hole gets smaller, so when its hanging, its secure. QUESTION what nice of screws/fasteners do i need to anchor this shelf securely to drywall? i want to be able to put books on it
11 Jul 2008, 5:20 pm | click here to view more
Hi, I'm looking for a product that allows me to monitor my home's electricity consumption. I've seen plenty of mini readers that allow you to look each appliance consumption, and I know I could be monitoring the meter the utility company has installed in my home. But honestly I do not understand those meters very much so I wonder if there is any other simpler solution out there? Please when answering consider that I want to monitor my whole home consumption (mot just few appliances), and that I am aware that I may have to modify some of my current electric installation
4 Sep 2008, 6:24 pm | click here to view more
Obviously it every depends on the size of the project, but if I could figure out the cost per cabinet that would be great! They offer Corian and granite too, so I'll probably do everything through then except appliances. (Please only respond if you have an IKEA kitchen.) Thanks!
29 Jun 2008, 12:32 am | click here to view more
I am currently gutting the kitchen in the home I just bought...new dry wall, floor tiles, appliances, cabinets and countertops. I found a place where I can buy prefabricated 3 cm granite slabs for a good price, and I found a store to make the cuts for me. My question is should I try to tackle the installation myself? It is an "L" shaped counter and there will be 1 seam in the corner. Is it possible for a novice, first-timer to make a good seam as long as the cuts are made right and I level my counters off to at least 1/8" level. I obviously don't have gorilla grips, but the guys at the store who will do my cuts told me I can dry fit my counter, shim it level, tug it apart about 1/8" and fill the seam with epoxy, butt the pieces up together, and use clamps on top of scrap granite pieces polished-side-down over the seam until the epoxy sets. I don't need perfect results, but I would like it to look pretty good. Should I attempt this?
14 Jul 2008, 6:50 am | click here to view more
Hello, I'd really appreciate some input on the subject of solar power panels. I've ready a lot and I've learned a lot in the recent months by Googl'ing and I realize it's a big undertaking and in order to generate a tiny amount of KWH it takes a lot of hardware/installation. I've been very interested for some time in this subject, not so much for my needs here in California (where my average monthly electrical bill is roughly $65, even when I run the A/C in my studio from time to time), but more for the time I spend in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, where electricity is about 10 times as expensive and where the price per KWH increases every 2 months. My question is; how realistic would it be to attempt to power a home in Brazil using solar panels? Of course it would be preferable to completely power the home with solar power, though partial solar power would also be helpful. It is hot in Rio 9 months out of the year (sometimes even every year long), and when it's hot there is plenty of sun. The cost of electricity is so high in Brazil (roughly 6 times higher than the US...and it goes up every 2 months or so) making it unaffordable to run A/Cs for most people. 1. Is there any way that I could run between 3-5 wall A/C units in a home, or one central A/C unit for the whole home (every day and every night) as well as to run the relax of the home's appliances (fridge, freezer, TVs, computers, lights, etc) using solar panels? I realize I'm asking a lot and I'm not sure how many KWHs it would require to run every of the over-mentioned, but is there a chance it could be done by only using the roof of the home as the resting area for the panels? If so, how much would it cost in hardware/installation to generate that much electricity? 2. I've seen solar panel systems on TV shows that apparently generate DC and then it gets converted to AC and then something else happens so that it can be used directly for the home...and when there is an excess of electricity, it feeds that solar-generated electricity back into the city electricity which turns back your meter. I have also seen systems that have battery arrays that are charged from the solar panels and then the home is run off of the batteries. Which of these 2 methods is best? (In my case, there may be one month where we're not at the home and one month where we are...could the "off months" be used to store generated electricity?) 3. Does anybody know if it would be better to seek to purchase solar panels in Brazil, or cheaper to import them from another country? 4. Has anyone heard of the SolCool Solar-Powered A/C? http://www.inhabitat.com/2007/07/16/solc... could this be a solution for those of us seeking to power A/Cs from solar panels? Thank you for taking your time to read this. Looking forward to your answers!
28 Sep 2008, 2:57 am | click here to view more
Could someone with experience, please give me an estimate for the price on the following (assume every items are modest; nothing fancy at every): 1) Installation of a new kitchen with new appliances. 2) Installation and purchase of a 2-sink bathroom counter. 3) Removal of a HUGH (3 feet across) Oak tree. 4) Repolishing of hardwood floors 5) refinishing and carpeting on stairs. 6) Some nice of "sealant" in a basement floor where there seems to be moisture and water coming in. 7) Approximate price to receive a contractor in to estimate every of this for me (I live in Massachusetts). Thanks so much!
17 Sep 2008, 7:38 pm | click here to view more
This is another sample item inserted using the custom content feature presented by SteadyNiche. Please, read the software documentation to know how to use this feature.
I'm looking to buy a home and trying to balance which updates are a must and which I can receive done myself. I'm wondering about kitchen cabinets, appliances (washer, dryer, fridge, stove), tiling in floors and walls, , tub and sink replacement, plumbing, painting, deck installation, fence installation, granite counter, roof, windows, carpeting, refinishing decks or floors, doors, molding, etc. estimated pricing would be helpful
3 May 2009, 11:45 am | click here to view more
In a kitchen area?
31 May 2008, 1:58 pm | click here to view more
what company is reasonably priced to receive a remodel for kitchen i'll purchase the appliances l just need installation changing gas hook up laying down floor covering etc
16 Mar 2009, 5:33 am | click here to view more
An electrical ballast (sometimes called control gear) is a device intended to limit the amount of current in an electric circuit.Ballasts vary greatly in complexity. They can be as simple as a series resistor as commonly used with tiny neon lamps. For higher-power installations, too much energy would be wasted in a resistive ballast, so alternatives are used that depend upon the reactance of inductors, capacitors, or both. Finally, ballasts can be as complex as the computerized, remote-controlled electronic ballasts used with fluorescent lamps.. we need to make a new design of the ballast for it can be use in appliances..what shall we do to make it?is it possible? it is not proven yet..that's why we are still discovering if it is possible..that's why it is called a research proposal..we are researching if it can work or not..if a ballast can't work,we will find another that can make our proposal a possible one..
20 Jun 2008, 12:43 am | click here to view more
I read that if installing HARDIBACKER, we have to lay thinset on the subfloor and then screw it to the subfloor. If the subfloor is wood, won't the thinset cause the wood to receive moist and possible rot over time? Also if the SUBFLOOR is like a deck made over the ground, just being held with 2x4's, what size hardibacker should we use, 1/4 or 1/2? If this is the case and appliances are being rolled over this area and it's got the wood plank, then the hardibacker with screws (no thinset below the hardibacker) then the thinset motar to hold the TRAVERTINE tiles in place. Won't the tile crack?
14 Sep 2009, 2:52 pm | click here to view more
I just bought a new home and I am getting some appliances delivered and installed. I have always lived in apartments prior to this and I am unsure about the tipping etiquette regarding appliance delivery and installation. Is this a situation where one would typically tip the delivery man or not? If so, how much would be appropriate? I am getting a washer and dryer installed and they basically just need to be hooked into the wall and possibly stacked. every the hookups are already there and easily accessable. I'm not sure that an appliance delivery guy would be considered a skilled worker... The installation doesn't require a specialist either. I could likely do it myself, but this just seems simpler and it's included.
5 Jan 2009, 2:35 pm | click here to view more
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My husband and I are building a home right now. We've got our first electric bill lately and it was $850!!! (We paid for the installation separately and this is just for usage.) We called the electric company and they came to read the meter again for us, and they said our bill was correct. Our home is just a standard 3 bedroom home with every electric. It is fully insulated and there is drywall on the walls. There is no appliance yet and the only thing we are using is electric heater which is set to 50F every the time and water pump in the basement. We live in north, so it is very icy right now. The bill says we used 5500 kwh in 27 days. The average electric usage for an Amrican family is 850 kwh per month. We really don't know why this is happening... We were told our next bill is going to be about the same amount. Our electric bill could be over $1000/mo after we move in and start using appliance, shower, etc... Can't afford!! The electric company said they tested the meter before they installed and it showed 99% accurate. Does anyone has same nice of problem? Is there any possible cause? I'd appreciate if anyone could give us a solution...
30 Jan 2009, 12:53 am | click here to view more
OK, so 3 years ago, the same week her husband died, my mom-in-law's range suffered an irreparable failure. The old range had an overhead (below cabinet mounted) microwave oven which also was non-functional at that point. Still in an understandable daze MIL purchased a new Bosch gas range and matching microwave. The appliance store recommended an installer and she had that person install the new range and microwave in the old space. 1) The new range is capable of getting way hotter than the old one 2) The microwave is larger than its predecessor. The result of these two factors is that there's only about 12 inches clearance from the top of the stove to the bottom of the microwave. This never looked right to me, but nobody in my husband's family ever listens to me anyway. Anyway, yesterday, in the middle of making gravy, MIL managed to melt the lining of the microwave door and the plastic cover over the task light mounted in it's base. This morning, I went on-line and found the installation guide for this model range. It clearly states that there must be a minimum of 30 inches clearance over the cooking surface. No one should ever have sold a microwave to go over this stove (since, if the clearance was right you'd have to be 7 feet tall to use it effectively) and no one with any competence should ever have installed it this way. Any ideas on how she sould go about addressing this? Who to approach with complaints, etc.? Thanks Yes, I am afraid she might be SOL because of the time involved, but the stove manual definatly lists the clearance.
28 Nov 2008, 7:53 pm | click here to view more
Questions says every really Ps this just applies to the UK...
6 Apr 2009, 11:41 am | click here to view more
Appliances to include, electric range, refrigerator, microwave over range, dishwasher. Want stainless steel or stainless steel look. price doesn't include installation.
16 Dec 2008, 12:15 pm | click here to view more
Would this work say if I used Home Depot or some form of Appliance Company that do repair, installation, and estimate. How would I set this up?
29 Nov 2008, 7:37 am | click here to view more
The answer to your query if it is new installation is: This was installed when the home was built in 1985. Worked fine since that time till just now. At this time no appliance, lamp or any device is plugged into any of the GFCI protected outlets-6 in every. Four of these outlets I have checked and replaced outlet for several with new ones. Two remaining outlets are outlets with covers for the outside---eg use for electric grass trimmer. Back at the GFCI breaker I checked voltage between the line and neutral wires screwed to it and there it reads 120V. Tnx
3 Jul 2008, 11:09 pm | click here to view more
I bought a new hot water heater in December and I was just reading about a $300 tax credit. look below "Heating, Cooling, and Water Heating Equipment Purchasers of qualified energy efficient property are eligible for tax credits up to the total expenditures on such property. The credit can also be applied to labor costs for assembly and original installation of this property. Eligible property and maximum credit amounts are as follows: electric heat pump water heaters: $300; " My question is do you receive this credit only if you itemize?
9 Jan 2009, 9:33 am | click here to view more
I guess this is silly, since difficult-wiring this sort of appliance makes a lot of sense... BUT... do they sell ductless range hoods that simply plug into a standard home plug? I'm asking because we are buying one for a tiny apartment,and there is no proper difficult-wired jack behind where the hood will go... but there is a standard 120v jack a little ways next to it on the way.... I could solve the installation really easy with a plug-in range hood. thanks
1 Nov 2009, 4:58 pm | click here to view more